Zam: thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th nyob rau hauv Teb chaws Europe thiab Russia

Nyob rau hauv lub thib nees nkaum xyoo pua muaj tau ntau uas tau ua ib tug ntau ntawm cov discoveries uas nws thiaj li muab lub ntiaj teb no. Kuv kov nws thiab zam. Vim rau cov txheej xwm ntawm lub sij hawm peb muaj nyob rau hauv peb hnub pom cov poj niam hnav ris thiab da dej suits uas yog ib zaug nkaus impermissible, tab sis nws yog nthuav tias nyob rau hauv lub trendy "revolutions" tshwm sim nyob rau hauv thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th?

Nta ntawm zam nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua

Los ntawm thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua tseem nyob tib lub yam ntxwv ntawm zam, raws li nyob rau hauv lub lig 19th caug xyoo. Cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws yog tsis yooj yim heev. By lub sij hawm no cov ntxhais coj qhws dresses rau hauv pem teb, fashionable tseem siab kaus mom thiab hairstyles, hnyav plaub tsho tiv no. Tej rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua tseem tsawg seeb corsets, uas yuav mus txog 45 centimeters nyob rau hauv girth ntawm lub duav rov sauv thiab yuav yog li liam noj qab haus huv, uas yog qhov kawg straw nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm ib tug ua tiav tsis kam cev tsoos tsho no attribute. Nws yog tsim nyog yuav tau hloov ib yam dab tsi, thiab los ntawm lub sij hawm lub sij hawm ntau cov kev hloov nyob rau hauv zam pib mus rau qhov chaw.
Lub earliest xyoo ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tseem muab khaws cia tseg echoes ntawm lub kawg ntawm lub yav dhau los xyoo pua. Designers tau ua raws li cov Art Nouveau style, uas yeej nyob rau hauv lub kos duab. Tus poj niam ciali yuav heev hais txog poj niam, airy thiab neprizemlennoe creation.

Poj niam kev zam ntawm qhov thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua

Tiam sis tej nrhav pib tshwm thaum pib nyob rau hauv 1900. Yog hais tias ua ntej lawm cov poj niam coj qhws A-zoo li tus dresses nyob rau hauv daim ntawv no, nyob rau hauv thawj xyoo caum, lawv tau hloov los ntawm ntau haum rau lub ncej puab outfits. Ib tug seeb corsets hloov nrog cov uas tsis muaj-lub duav rov sauv corsets thawj mos siab lub duav rov sauv, thiab ces kiag li nres siv. Tsis tas li ntawd ua ntej 1906 twb nrov heev ntau sab saum toj tsho uas roj mus rau lub luj tshib thiab lub dab teg. Cov kev hloov no tshwm sim heev hloov qhov zoo ntawm cov poj niam.

Heev ntev zam rau "hourglass", uas muaj nyob rau hauv lush lub duav, ib tug heev nqaim duav thiab xam xubntiag, uas yog ib hom ntawm ib tug poj niam thiab ua kom luag nrog kev pab los ntawm cov khaub ncaws, zam hloov mus rau ib tug ntau "square" thiab yooj yim to taub silhouette. Phim, thiab tej zaum kuj pab kev zoo nkauj, twb hloov txhua lub sij hawm lub practicality thiab kev nplij siab, ces tus zoo nkauj ib nrab ntawm noob neej tau ntsib nrhav nrog tsis pab txhawb nqa thiab kev txaus siab. Los ntawm lub thib ob ib nrab ntawm lub xyoo caum, tom qab lub disappearance ntawm corset lub duav rov sauv hais txog ribbons. Pem Teb-ntev dresses zog rau pob luj taws.

Designers tau ho yooj yim zog cov silhouette ntawm cov khaub ncaws rau cov poj niam, ua rau nws ncaj. Dresses xaws twb nrog ib tug dav duav los yog kiag li nepritalennymi.

Nws yog nrov sportswear, uas yog ib tug nyiam dresses rau ntau hom kev ua si. Tau nws tej chaw raws li maus taus daim ntaub thaiv hnav thaum tsav tsheb ib lub tsheb, thiab ib lub kaus mom-boater rau taug kev cycling, ntaus pob tesniv, thiab tshaj.

accessories

Hloov zam thiab handbags. Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua tseem coj qhws hnab me me, tab sis tom qab ib tug ob peb xyoos lawv tau ua ntau thiab ntau capacious.

Kev qhia ntau txog yog muab tso rau hauv nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib lub kaus mom. Tej hlub hnav qauv uas muaj ntau brim nrog ib tug ntau yam ntawm ornaments nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm feathers, ribbons, hlaws dai. Kaus mom - ib qho tseem ceeb accessory ntawm tej fashionista. Los ntawm kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua nws yog nyob rau hauv zam lub kaus mom nrog dangling down teb, kaw ib tug me ntsis lub ntsej muag. Khau yog nqaim nrog tsawg heels thiab kuj dai kom zoo nkauj nrog rau ntau yam ribbons thiab cov nyees khawm.

Hniav nyiaj hniav kub kuj underwent cov kev hloov: intricate designs tau hloov los ntawm ib tug du nto, precious pob zeb raug hloov nrog semi-precious pob zeb thiab enamel, iav pib yuav tsum tau siv ntau feem ntau. Nyob rau hauv lwm yam lus, lub jewellery tau ua yooj yim thiab ntau khi.

Cov plaub hau thiab pleev

Nyob rau hauv ib tug zam yog aristocratic pallor, uas cov poj niam sim mus sab laj txog ntau li ntau tau siv hmoov thiab ntau yam ntawm daim tawv dawb cov neeg ua hauj (e.g., txiv qaub kua txiv). Makeup thov ntawm ib tug tsawg kawg nkaus. Lipsticks siv, tab sis cov xim yuav tsum ua tau heev dim. Ob lub qhov muag tseem ceeb ib tug me me npaum li cas ntawm tus duab ntxoov ntxoo. Kaj make-up mas suav hais tias phem daim ntawv.

Yog heev fashionable hairstyle hu ua "Marseilles yoj" uas tuaj nrog Marseille Grato. Nrog kev pab los ntawm kub pas tais ua tib zoo yoj nyob rau hauv cov plaub hau.

Ua tsaug rau cov uas ntsiag to xinesmas style luv luv haircuts nkag mus rau hauv 1909, thiab lawv cov chaw tau ntawd kub ntev li ib tug ntev lub sij hawm vim hais tias ntawm lub thawj lub ntiaj teb ua tsov ua rog, thaum cov poj niam pab cov raug mob nyob rau hauv tsev kho mob tsuas yuav tsis tu lawv cov plaub hau.

Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem muab lub ntiaj teb tam sim no lub npe hu mus rau tag nrho hairstyles - "square" thiab "waiter."

Tab sis cov plaub hau ntev yog fashionable luv luv par. Tus hluas nkauj hlub tus ntws plaub hau (ncaj los yog curly) sib sau ua ke nyob rau hauv ib tug pob caus qab.

Cov me nyuam zam

Tus hluas nkauj ces coj qhws dresses rau lub hauv caug ntawm lub hom li hais tias ntawm cov neeg laus cov poj niam uas tas lawv cov heev reminiscent ntawm nightgowns. Rau kom yooj yim, cov kev ua si nyob rau hauv lub tes tsho hnav ris tsho luj tshib. Thiab raws li rau cov khau hnav dub nkawm khau los sis plab hlaub nrog cov nyees khawm los yog trimmed nrog lace.

Lawv coj qhws woolen vuam txwv ntev los yog thom khwm thiab hnab looj tes.

Txiv neej zam

Tab sis nyob rau hauv cov txiv neej cov khaub ncaws tsis muaj teeb meem loj cov kev hloov. Tseem tseem conservative thiab xis hnav. Tus txiv neej hnav ris, tsho tiv no, tsho ntev uas yog universal, txawm nyob rau hauv peb hnub. Loj Pob Luj Taws-tsho ntev ntawm pluab cov tsiaj, uas yog feem ntau hnav nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj no rau lub thib ob ib nrab ntawm cov 19th caug xyoo, lub zam rau cov uas mus nrog cov "kub fever", yog tseem tawm ntawm zam.

Official thiab ceremonial cov txheej xwm tau muab tso rau tsho tiv no, xuv tuxedo, butterflies.

Nyob rau hauv qhov kev txiav txim, cov lus Askiv King Edward 7 ntawm cov sij hawm suav hais tias ib tug style icon ntawm cov txiv neej zam ntawm thaum ntxov 20th caug xyoo. Nws yog assumed tias nws qhia txoj kev zam ntawm sub ntawm nws ris thiab rhais.

Nws yog ib nqi sau cia hais tias lub khaub ncaws silhouette tau ua universal rau tag nrho cov chav kawm: hais tias tus neeg ua hauj lwm uas cov nplua nuj. Tab sis, raws li, txawv tsuas zoo khaub ncaws fabrics thiab tailoring.

Nyob rau hauv ib tug zam tseem kaus mom thiab thooj voos kheej kheej, tab sis tuaj nyob rau hauv ib tug txiv neej lub cwj pwm ntawm lub thiaj li hu ua lub lauj kaub, uas twb hnav ua ke nrog txhua hnub khaub ncaws.

Cov plaub hau shorn cov txiv neej feem ntau luv luv. Hwj txwv thiab hwj txwv tsuas yog cov hwj txwv sheared ntau tshaj puag ncig, thaum, sai li sai raws li nws yog feem ntau yog ua mob.

"Haute Couture"

Tus thawj xyoo caum yog tseem tseem ceeb flowering ntawm lub thiaj li hu ua Parisian "haute Couture", uas yog muab faib thoob plaws hauv teb chaws Europe. Muaj kuj nrov zam cov phau ntawv Magazine, phaib pib yuav tsum tau muab nyob rau hauv cov ntawv no. Ntau yam miv thiab qhia tau hloov ib tug los ntawm ib tug.

Paris thiab hnub no yog suav tias yog lub peev ntawm zam, tab sis yog ib tug twb tau xyoo pua!

Qhov zoo couturier

Zhak Duse xav los ua ib tug neeg pleev kob, tab sis, thaum nws niam nws txiv tuag lawm, nws tau txais dhau rooj plaub rau cov muag khoom ntawm ris tsho hauv qab. Yog li, tham nws tus kheej nrog rau lub cev, thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem tau los yug dua no nws tau txais ntau lawm nyob rau hauv feem ntau loj zam lub tsev nyob rau hauv Paris, thiab ua tsaug rau nws, lub ntiaj teb no tau pom ib tug heev zoo nkauj dresses. Nws tseem yog heev pab tau los ua nto moo zam designers xws li Pol Puare thiab Madeleine Vionnet.

Ib tug tseem ceeb pab rau lub keeb kwm ntawm zam tau ua lub qub tub luam umbrellas - twb hais Pol Puare, uas tom qab tau los ua tus zoo designer. Nws yog nws leej twg dresses yooj yim zog los ntawm tshem lawv petticoat thiab corset-hauv ob sab phlu. Thiab hais tias nws zog lub tiab rau nws cov qij taws. Cov designer kuj zoo heev embellished garments, vim hais tias rau nws nws rau tag nrho nws lub peev xwm li tsis txawv ntau haiv neeg. Pol Puare tso ib tug sau ntawm cov tsho tiv no nyob rau hauv lub Slavic style, uas differed nyob rau hauv ntau daim thiab kev zoo nkauj ntawm cov qauv, ornaments.

Zhanna Paken - tus thawj poj niam couturier. Nws nrog nws tus txiv Isidor Paken tsim lub zam lub tsev, uas tau remarkably kev vam meej. Dresses hnav los ntawm poj niam ntawm nws collections tag nrho cov thoob lub ntiaj teb no.

Lavxias teb sab kev zam ntawm qhov thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua

Yuav ua li cas tshwm sim rau cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv lub Slavic ntiaj teb no ntawm lub sij hawm? Cov poj niam zam nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua, Zog ntawm Guj kuj tau tuaj nyob rau cov teeb meem loj tus ntawm Art Nouveau style thiab tag nrho cov twb raug mus rau ze li ntawm tib yam hloov raws li nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe. Tsis tas li ntawd hloov lub silhouette muaj ib tug nqaim duav, tab sis zoo kawg li ob lub mis, ntau rectangular, thiab ntau haum.

Lawv nrov zam cov phau ntawv Magazine, xws li "tseeb zam", "Paris zam". Muaj tau txawm paub Lavxias teb sab zam lub tsev. Muaj ntau ntau cov duab ntawm thaum ntxov 20th caug xyoo. Zam nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab faj tim teb chaws yog nyob rau hauv kauj ruam nrog lub ntiaj teb no zam.

Tab sis dhau European cawv, Lavxias teb sab zam tiam sis ho raug rau cov Japanese vim hais tias ntawm Lavxias teb sab-Japanese kev tsov kev rog. Qhov no yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog noticeable nyob rau hauv hairstyles fashionistas uas sim los tsim los ntawm nws cov plaub hau rau nws lub taub hau siab kawg li nce toj hom hairstyles Japanese Geisha.

Lwm zam Lavxias teb sab poj niam txawv los ntawm European ntau tiag tiag li ntau yam ntawm cov xim. Dresses twb txaus kob, raws li txwv mus rau cov uas tsis muaj-tseem ceeb xim ntawm European outfits. Lawv kuj muaj ntau decorations tshaj nyob rau hauv lub sab hnub poob. Dresses yuav sheathe ib tug ntoo khaub lig, paj ntaub, ntau ntawm lace thiab ntau lwm tus neeg.

Plaub tseem nrov. Tej lub caij ntuj no feem ntau hnav clutch.

Nws yog ib nqi hais txog lub npe nrov personalities uas pab rau lub Lavxias teb sab zam. Piv txwv li, lub Fabkis yug Rene Brizak tsim nto moo tshaj plaws fashion tsev nyob rau hauv St. Petersburg. Thiab Olga Bulbenkova tsim ib tug Rhiav qhov twg lawv ua khoom kim heev tiab qhov twg txawm xaws dresses empresses ntawm lub sij hawm. Muaj ib tug ntau ntawm cov kev zam designers nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab teb chaws Ottoman.

xaus

Thaum pib ntawm lub thib nees nkaum xyoo pua coj mus rau ib tug tseem ceeb kev hloov nyob rau hauv zam. Weighting thiab kaw txiav txim hloov simplicity thiab yooj yim. Tej nres hnav seeb corsets, dresses los ua luv luv, khaub-ncaws nyias, daim ntawv-haum, nrog ib tug tsawg pronounced duav, tab sis tseem nyob tib poj niam thiab zoo nkauj nyob rau hauv lub Art Nouveau style. Txawm yooj yim decorations, tab sis lub décor dresses thiab cov kaus mom tseem tseem heev varied thiab interesting: ib tug ntau yam ntawm lace, hlaws dai, plaub, ribbons.

Nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua, muaj ib tug ncov, thaum tag nrho cov thoob lub ntiaj teb muaj lub npe hu loj zam lub tsev thiab cov poj designers uas, los ntawm lawv cov collections thiab dresses ntaus fashionistas los ntawm ib ncig lub ntiaj teb no.

Lavxias teb sab zam tau noj ntau npaum li cas ntawm cov teb chaws Europe, txawm li cas los, thiab European zam uas tau coj ib tug ntau ntawm Lavxias teb sab. Piv txwv li, cov tsho tiv no, trimmed nyob rau hauv lub Slavic style.

Muaj teeb meem loj cov kev hloov, raws li los ntawm lub tom ntej no trendy "kiv puag ncig" ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, ua tsaug rau uas peb niaj hnub no pom khaub ncaws rau nws yog dab tsi: tej yam yooj yim thiab yooj yim.