Zam 20 lub ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th: khaub ncaws, hairstyles, tshuaj pleev ib ce, hniav nyiaj hniav kub

1920 hu ua "roaring twenties", "roaring twenties", "vwm twenties", "Golden twenties". Qhov no yog qhov era ntawm jazz thiab kos duab deco heyday ntawm xov tooj cua thiab xinesmas, dancing thiab revelry ntawm lub hmo ntuj lub neej. Lub sij hawm no, survivors ntawm ib tug ntsoog loj heev tsov rog ntiaj teb, nws yog lub sij hawm ntawm kuj zoo kawg hloov thiab kev kawm.

Yuav ua li cas pab cov fashion?

Nyob rau hauv lub 20 xyoo npaum li cas tau hloov lub social txoj hauj lwm ntawm cov poj niam. Yog hais tias ua ntej lawm, txawm feminists paub hais tias kev ncaj ncees nrog txiv neej pw yuav tsum xaiv ntawm cov hauj lwm thiab tsev neeg tseem ceeb, tam sim no tej xav muab ob leeg. Ib tug tshiab tiam ntawm hnub cov poj niam hu ua flepper. Tsis zoo li lawv niam thiab grandmothers uas raug coj los ntawm lub Victorian hom phiaj flepper coj kev nyuaj siab free: lawv tej khaub ncaws yog nce discovering lub cev, lawv yog lug pleev xim rau thiab mloog jazz, lawv tsav tsheb mus ib lub tsheb thiab tsim ib txoj hauj lwm, smoked thiab seev cev.

Nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd mus rau lub emancipation, tus poj niam lub ntiaj teb no tau pab los ntawm tus thawj lub ntiaj teb no ua tsov ua rog. Thaum cov txiv neej mus rau pem hauv ntej, nws yog cov poj niam uas muaj mus sawv ntsug rau lub machines nyob rau hauv lub factories, mus khawb trenches, yuav tu lub kev txhab, hluav taws tua hluav taws kub thiab rau ua raws li enforcers. Tag nrho cov kev hloov no yog thaws rov los nyob rau hauv cov poj niam lub qhov thiab, raws li ib tug tsim nyog tau, nyob rau hauv kev zam ntawm qhov roaring twenties.

Nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no ntawm fashion keeb kwm ntawm lub sij hawm no yog cia tus tig taw tes. Nws hloov li radically hais tias nws yog nyob rau hauv 1920, koj muaj peev xwm kos ib tug ntshiab kab ntawm kev zam ntawm qhov 19th xyoo pua, uas uas tau muaj txawm ua ntej tsov rog, thiab cov kev zam ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th. Corsets thiab ntev tiab tsis tau raws li niaj hnub yuav tsum tau txoj kev nplij siab thiab functionality, zoo elaborate hairstyles thiab dav-brimmed kaus mom, dresses txiav yuav yooj yim fasteners txav los ntawm sab nraum qab rau lub hauv siab, tag nrho cov ntau ntau txoj kev "xob", lub zam yog Unisex style.

hnav ris tsho

Zam 20 lub ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th dictated ib tug tshiab zoo tagnrho ntawm hais txog poj niam zoo li. Hluas nkauj emansipe yuav tsum heev slim, nrog rau lub nqaim boyish lub duav thiab featureless siab. Nws tuaj mus rau lub point tias cov poj niam ib yam nkaus thiab zoo kawg li bust perebintovyvali nruj. Androgynous daim duab pab los txhawb ib tug kev ua si nawv uas tau ua nrov ntawm flepper. Thiab mus sab laj txog qhov yuav luag boyish thinness thiab angularity tau hu ua ncaj silhouette hnav ris tsho. lub duav rov sauv kab li outfits yog heev understated, tab sis nrhiav nws daim tiab mus. Yog hais tias thaum pib ntawm lub 20s nws yog fashionable ntev mus rau lub pob taws, nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub era tiab nce mus txog rau lub hauv caug, thiab txawm ib tug me ntsis ntau dua, dua xa me nyuam rov cia nyob rau hauv lub kawg ntawm lub xyoo caum. Npab ntev ploj thiab muab txoj kev mus rau lub straps ntawm lub cev ntau raug: tus neeg hu tshwm nyob rau hauv cov kev txiav-rov qab.

Lub postwar ntiaj teb no lub zos nws tus thiaj li hu ua dansingomaniya. Lub chaw ntawm cov seev cev muaj zog sharply, tau tshaj nyiam foxtrot, tango thiab American waltz, kev nyuaj siab vim thiab kis tau tus Charleston, Lindy Hop thiab viav vias. Pawg dansingomanii hloov zam 20s. Dresses, uas yuav tsum yooj yim las voos ib hmos, tau luv luv, ua nrov ci iab fabrics, ya lub "tails", fringe thiab hlaws paj ntaub, plaub thiab plaub nyob rau hauv ob txhais ceg - lub tsev hais plaub khau nrog luj taws. Neckline nyob rau tom qab ib feem nce mus txog lub duav rov sauv poj niam, nqaim duav dai kom zoo nkauj nrog bows thiab yuav luag tiaj siab - multi-layered saw caj dab ntawm pearls.

outerwear

20s kuj yog ib tug lub sij hawm ntawm experimentation, innovation thiab flighty tswv yim. Nyob rau hauv tus ntawm tshiab tiam sis tau hloov thiab outerwear. Yog hais tias nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 20th xyoo pua, nws yog tsis sib txawv ntau yam ntawm yeej, tom qab tsov rog, qhov teeb meem no hloov dramatically: cov tub rog uas tiv thaiv txawv teb chaws, coj tsev ib tug ntau ntawm cov tswv yim tshiab. Yeej ntawm lwm lub teb chaws tau raug thawb nyob sab Europe thiab American zam designers los tsim collections, nyob qhov twg ntau haiv neeg intertwined thiab muab mus rau hauv ib yam dab tsi decidedly tshiab. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv cov xyoo nyob rau hauv podium mus dhaus cape - lub tsho tiv no tsis muaj tes tsho, lub npe hu nyob rau hauv peb lub sij hawm.

Tab sis qhov tseem nrov hauv daim ntawv ntawm sab nraum zoov khaub ncaws ua legendary trench ( "tsho tiv no trench"), tsim los ntawm lub Englishman Thomas Bredberri. Qhov no lub tsho tiv no ntawm waterproof gabardine tau tsim rau cov tub rog tau ntau chaw nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb ua ntej tsov rog thiab ntse conquers lub podium niaj hnub no. Tshiab lub tsho tiv no ntes rau hauv lub minds ntawm fashionistas tsov twenties. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau cov poj niam Bredberri pib zus tau tej cov ib tug ntau graceful thiab lub teeb qauv ntawm nqaij mos. Trench tsho tiv no zoo meej match zam rau Unisex, raws li cov tshiab yuav tsum tau ntawm kev kab ntsab thiab kev nplij siab.

ris

Cov poj niam nyob rau hauv lub 20-ies koom mastered tus txiv neej kheej ntawm kev ua si: lawv zaum ntawm lub helm ntawm lub aircraft, lub tsheb tsav tsheb thiab ua si kev ua si. Ntawm cov hoob kawm, zam 20 lub ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, thaws rov los tag nrho cov kev hloov: emansipe coj cov looj ib ce thiab ya davhlau tsho loj, cov txiv neej hnav tej cev xuv tuxedo thiab breeches. Tab sis feem ntau, tej zaum, ib tug revolutionary innovation ua poj niam ris. Thaum lawv yuav tsis oust daim tiab ncaj silhouette, tab sis pajama ris uas tuaj rau teb chaws Europe los ntawm Is Nrias teb, tau los ua ib tug fashionable khaub ncaws rau mus ncig ua si rau lub puam. Ib me ntsis tom qab, thaum lub Fabkis artist-designer Zhanna Lanven pib tsim elegant tsoog naav pw ntawm ntws fabrics, dai kom zoo nkauj nrog lace, paj ntaub thiab fringed cov poj niam mus tim tawm nyob rau hauv xws attire rau hauv txoj kev. Peb yuav hais tias tsoog naav pw los ua tus tsab ntawm tus thawj trouser ce, uas yuav nkag mus rau hauv zam tom qab.

nkawm khau

Nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd mus rau lub luv luv dresses ntawm jazz dancers dansingomaniya muab roaring twenties elegant tsev hais plaub khau nrog heels, richly decorated nrog diamonds, straps thiab buckles. Lub highlight ntawm no khau-buckles tau webbed. Tsev Hais Plaub khau muaj nuj nqis heev kim, thiaj li rau kev tiv thaiv ntawm txoj kev av tej muab tso rau hauv lawv cov tshwj xeeb roj hmab khau, ib yam dab tsi zoo li galoshes nrog ib tug me ntsis indentation nyob rau hauv dav luj.

Lwm hit ntawm lub caij - siab khau looj plab hlaub, hu ua Lavxias teb sab. zam kis lawv pab mus rau ntau cov neeg tsiv teb los ntawm Russia uas khiav txawv teb chaws tom qab lub kiv puag ncig. Pab thiab sai heev shortening poj niam dresses. Rau cov thawj lub sij hawm, "Lavxias teb sab khau looj plab hlaub" pom Parisian zam designer Pol Puare nyob rau hauv 1913, tshwm sim los ntawm nws mus rau St. Petersburg thiab Moscow.

kaus mom

Yuav Tsum cwj pwm ntawm fashionable costume nyob rau hauv lub 20s yog tseem lub kaus mom, yog cia li lawv saib txawv heev. Fading frilly dav teb, tsis nco qab lawm bonnets thiab tog vaj tog tsev. Thaum lub ncov ntawm muaj koob meej - ib lub kaus mom-Cloche-zoo li tus tswb. Nws tsos Cloche khi Fabkis milliner Caroline Reba, "huab tais" lub kaus mom zam. Tej headwear sewn yog feem ntau ua los ntawm felt, velvet los yog satin, horsehair, muaj los yog straw. Cloche kaus mom-tso cai mus nkaum cov plaub hau, yog nyiam thiab tswv yim. Dhau li lawv, tus era ntawm jazz tej xaiv berets thiab headbands. Yav tsaus ntuj cov kaus mom intricately dai kom zoo nkauj nrog zoo nkauj stitches, satin ribbons, paj thiab rhinestones, plaub thiab brooches.

Tom qab tsiv teb tsaws los ntawm Russia rau teb chaws Europe thiab lub tebchaws United States nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no mam li nco dheev bursts rau hauv Western zam tsoos Lavxias teb sab headgear - kokoshnik. Nws yuav rightly yuav suav hais tias yog feem ntau nrov caij ntawm lub teb chaws costume nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm ntawm lub ntiaj teb no ua tsov ua rog. Cov poj niam zam 20 lub, muaj muab tso rau hauv kokoshnik-mom nyob rau hauv kab tshoob, thiab nws dawb do reinterpreted luam ua ib feem ntawm txhua hnub hnav ris tsho. Zhanna Lanven txawm tso ib tug sau ntawm thiaj li hu ua Lavxias teb sab kaus mom, thiab zam lub tsev muag kokoshniki yas.

accessories

Designers 20s mus tsim lub costumes xaiv satin, velvet thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav. Ib tug tiag tiag foundations yuav tsho: nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19 vim hais tias nws tau xaws dawb xwb ris tsho hauv qab thiab khaub ncaws rau cov neeg los ntawm lub qis chav kawm ntawv, nyob rau hauv lub roaring twenties, nws coj tawm nyob rau hauv nws lub pedestal. Plaub ceased mus yuav tau ib feem ntawm outerwear: tej-hnav flepper Pestsovoye los yog sable tawv rau liab qab lub xub pwg nyom, complementing lawv thaum yav tsaus ntuj hnav ris tsho. Ib tug indispensable accessory ua ib tug ntev luam yeeb yas dhos luam yeeb cov ntaub ntawv thiab Artsy.

Zam 20 lub ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th enjoyed monotony ntawm costumes, tab sis vim hais tias ntawm lawv cov finish yog tshwj xeeb yog nplua nuj. Ris tsho dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov hlaws dai, fringe thiab paj ntaub. Tiam nrov yog pej xeem motifs: cov poj niam xaiv Suav paj ntaub thiab Persian designs. Tus foundations nyob rau hauv 1922 ntawm lub qhov ntxa uas Tutankhamun nyob rau hauv lus Askiv archaeologist Howard Carter coj mus rau Egyptomania uas tau engulfed lub tag nrho Western lub ntiaj teb no. Lub chaw tau tuaj mus rau tus thawj lub zam contrasting cov xim cov yam ntxwv ntawm Iyiv kab lis kev cai, geometric ntaub ntawv ntawm ancient kos duab, cim thiab tsoos nuj nqis, beaded hnab thiab plaub boa.

Ntawm cov hoob kawm, tus muaj koob meej ntawm txawv cuam tshuam rau lub kos duab ntawm hniav nyiaj hniav kub, thiab zam hniav nyiaj hniav kub yog tseem muaj. Tej zaum cov thawj ntawm cov qhia txog yam tshiab ntawm cov poj niam 20s yog cov hlaws dai ntawm pearls. Lawv yog qhwv nyob ib ncig ntawm lub caj dab ob peb lub sij hawm, thiab tus nqi qis tshaj theem ntawm lawv yuav mus ncav cuag lub duav. Tej zaum xaiv rhinestone es tsis txhob ntawm pearls. Dhau li cov hlaws dai, tej coj qhws loj cov plaub hau clips thiab brooches, sab haiv neeg bracelets thiab loj heev geometric tsej. Lub zam yog diadem, nws tuaj tos rau yav tsaus ntuj hnav. Cov feem nrov co yog platinum thiab dawb kub, thiab lub sij hawm no nyob rau hauv lub kos duab ntawm hniav nyiaj hniav kub hu ua "dawb".

Vim lub zam rau luv luv dresses loj loj thov nyias txhob lo lo ntxhuav vuam txwv ntev nrog ib tug siv, uas, li cas los xij, twb tsis yog tag nrho yuav them taus, li ntawd, es tsis txhob lawv feem ntau yuav hluavtaws. Ib tug tshiab style ntawm cov khaub ncaws thiab demanded tshiab khaub ncaws: poj niam ntawm lub 1920 los xaiv ib tug ua ke ntawm luv luv, ncaj, cov seem txeej sab saum toj, clutching nws lub hauv siab, txhob lo lo ntxhuav ris ntev thiab nqaim petticoats.

Cov plaub hau thiab pleev

Zam hairstyles 20 lub hais mus tso tseg lub cov plaub hau ntev nyob rau hauv dej ntawm luv luv, yuav luag boyish haircuts. Flepper, yuav xaiv cov waiter - hairstyle "nyob rau hauv lub me nyuam tub" ntawm plaub hau luv luv. Nws yog ua nrov tom qab qhov kev tso tawm ntawm tus tshiab los ntawm Fabkis txawj sau ntawv Victor Margherita La Garçonne ( «Bachelorette") nyob rau hauv 1922. Garzon hnav ob leeg nrog ib tug Bang, los yog tsis, tau tawm cov plaub hau los ntawm pob ntseg rau pob ntseg thiab muaj ib cov daim ntawv. Nws yog ib tug yooj yim yooj yim hairstyle uas tso cai rau cov poj niam mus ib zaug dua qhia lawv koob pheej ntawm lawv nrog cov txiv neej.

Tab sis tsis tau tsuas yog lub luv luv yeej lub siab lub ntsws ntawm fashionistas jazz era. Zam 20-30 xyoo muaj luv luv laim ntoom plaub hau thiab ib tug zoo huv si bundles muaj rau cov neeg uas tsis twv tau txiav. Ib qho tseem ceeb txog txoj kev hnav khaub ncaws yog: lawv tau ua ntawm luxurious fabrics, richly adorned nrog pearls thiab lace, raug xaiv rau txhua rooj plaub thiab wardrobe. Qhov no twb tsau ntaub qhwv rau hauv nws lub hauv pliaj thiab suav hais tias ib tug kos npe rau ntawm cov khoom kim heev. Cov poj niam emansipe thiab coj qhws hairnets: sib nrug los ntawm purely hniav muaj nuj nqi, lawv ua raws li cov plaub hau, uas yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog ib qho tseem ceeb thaum lub sij hawm lub festive yav tsaus ntuj thiab tsaus ntuj nti seev cev.

Kaj make-up yog yuav tsum tau rau txhua tus fashionista tsov twenties. Ilv daj ntseg hloov xim flashy cinematic pleev. Poj niam paints daim di ncauj nyob kaj lug liab los yog caw xim, ua txoj painting "nyo hau", generously siv hmoov thiab rouge, kos ib tug nyias arc ntawm tsag. Kev mloog yog attracted ob lub qhov muag nyob rau hauv zam tau tsaus ntxoov ntxoo thiab tuab dub eyeliner thiab cuav plaub muag, dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov hlaws dai thiab sequins rau yav tsaus ntuj nyob rau hauv lub teeb. Ib tug tshiab txoj kev haus luam yeeb tsis muaj kev txwv yuav tsum tau mus tsom rau ntawm ob txhais tes, yog li nyob rau hauv lub 1920 tshwm dawb lias ntsia thawv polish.

Txiv neej zam

Nyob rau hauv 1920 qhia cov "qhuav" txoj cai nyob rau hauv lub tebchaws United States, haus dej cawv yog txwv tsis pub los tsim, muag thiab haus thoob plaws lub teb chaws. Nws yuav tsum txo txoj kev loj hlob ntawm kev ua txhaum, daws kev teeb meem thiab ntxiv dag zog rau kev kho mob ntawm Americans, tab sis tag nrho cov muab tawm txawv: nyob rau hauv lub tebchaws United States muaj kev koom tsim kev noj nyiaj txiag thiab smuggling. Cov tswv cuab ntawm lub koom haum, kev ua txhaum los ua lub npe hu gangsters. American zam 20-30 xyoo lub caij nplooj zeeg nyob rau hauv lawv cawv: cov txiv neej, yog peb xyaum rau hauv cov style ntawm lub taub hau ntawm lub txim txhaum ntiaj teb no Al Kapone, hnav tsaus double-breasted suits nyob rau hauv pinstripe qauv los yog "herringbone", ob-laus nkawm khau thiab muaj kaus mom, suspenders thiab cuff mus, rings thiab watches

Txiv neej zam 20 xyoo thiab popularize classical style. Conservative txiv neej ce tsho assumed nrog ib tug high school cov duav thiab nqaim lub xub pwg nyom: no txiav visually stretched silhouette. Jazz boom pab mus rau kis ntawm tib lub npe ce nrog nqaim ris ntev thiab npaud tsho. Lwm sib, uas tuaj tawm ntawm Oxford - ib tug dav flannel ris. Lawv pib hnav mus nkaum qhov kev ntaus kis las thom khwm uas poob nyob rau hauv cov nruj chov. Tailcoat maj receding rau yav tag los, los hloov nws los ib tug shortened tuxedo.

Lavxias teb sab zam

Tsis tsuas yog lub West kov revolutionary tshiab zam 20 xyoo. Zog ntawm Guj kuj - los yog es, twb Soviet Union - twb sim kom mus nrog ntiaj teb no tiam sis muaj lim mus rau hauv lub teb chaws, nyob qhov twg muaj tsis muaj "hlau ntaub". Thaum lub sij hawm no, nws qhib thawj nyob rau hauv lub Soviet Union "Rhiav ntawm kev kawm costume." Lavxias teb sab thiab Soviet zam designer Nadezhda Lamanova yog commissioned los ua ib tug neeg ua hauj lwm-pluag zam, tab sis nws muab ib tug pheej yig ntxhib daim ntaub. Ib tug tom qab tsim "Couture" muaj nyob rau hauv nws pov tseg brocade, velvet, txhob lo lo ntxhuav, txeeb los ntawm cov Tshuag ntawm emigrants.

NEP nyob rau hauv lub Soviet Union hloov lub devastation thiab kev txom nyem soared avant-garde tswv yim thiab constructivist npaj nyob rau hauv cov huab cua. Cov poj niam uas tus USSR, raws li nyob rau hauv lub sab hnub poob, yog tseem nyiam boyish daim duab, xoob dresses, kaus mom thiab hniav nyiaj hniav kub. Lawv coj qhws ris, nquag haus, tsav tsheb ib lub tsheb thiab ua cov kev ua si. Cov plaub hau Soviet fashionista luv heev sheared, tab sis, nyob rau hauv sib piv rau lub American thiab European cov poj niam, lawv najnpawb tsis mus caws. Avant tau ua tswvcuab fashionable geometric txog yam tshiab adorning hais txog poj niam outfits. Constructivists ntawm tsev neeg cov khaub ncaws abolished tag nrho cov uas yuav tsum tau dhau heev lawm cov ntaub so ntswg - tucks, pleats thiab ris.

Tej zaum, nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua xeem tsis yog ib tug tib xyoo caum thaum zam hloov kom dramatically nyob rau hauv cia li ib tug ob peb xyoos. Zam 20 lub ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th - ib tug tshwm sim dictated los ntawm cov me nyuam yug ntawm ib tug kiag li tshiab tiam sis, yeej thiab tiam sis.